Hi Iím Tim at Beenleigh

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Hi Iím Tim at Beenleigh

Post  tim1972 on 26th November 2014, 3:01 am

This is brain picking for liquid? †Smile †But first you and straddy boys photos are why I joined the forum in 2012, guys your photos are getting better each time I look in. For me, someone who is afraid of sharks, this is the place to come and see the best dive photos for reefers, you guys donít just take the larger marine life pics, you two must have your heads down all the time to see the things you both take photos of, you do look up for sharks donít you? †Shocked
Okay I need help on understanding phosphates for my red sea max 130d to start a cycle in the Christmas holidays.
I read about this all over the internet for if you are going small polyp stony corals and I do not understand what its all about, what do I need to do? †
cheers

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Re: Hi Iím Tim at Beenleigh

Post  liquidg on 26th November 2014, 5:34 am

Hey Tim glad to see you spoke up finally on here and thanks for words on our pics as well.
Mate just look over Randy's links that follow and if you are still confused, get back on here and i will simplify it all if you like.
Randy is a top bloke and always helpful.
Phos
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Nitrate
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Re: Hi Iím Tim at Beenleigh

Post  Simon51 on 26th November 2014, 11:28 am

Wow lot of reading, think I have read it once before actually, Nice article though doesn't leave to many stones unturned. Can I ask anyone what macro algae they use and find the best for exportation? Mainly to target phosphates in keeping with the article

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Re: Hi Iím Tim at Beenleigh

Post  tim1972 on 27th November 2014, 11:02 am

I have read them both now and still no better off. Itís not easy to get your head around it all and those articles are quite intense with the explanations, to intense for me. Shocked
What do you think of the of formula409s ion exchanger liquidg? Question
Sorry Simon51 I donít use any algae and wont, not enough room for me.
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Re: Hi Iím Tim at Beenleigh

Post  liquidg on 27th November 2014, 12:24 pm

Thatís a shame mate, Randy is one smart cookie.
I don't know anything worth knowing about ion exchanging mate, sorry!

Okay, being that our hobby is salt water related, that in itís self is an issue with phos and PH, you will get my drift as we go along.

You know the cycling you have read that you need to do for your system, well the nitrogen cycles waste is phosphate and nitrate, so if its dead from any reason, it becomes troublesome to corals!
Where does Phosphate come from, well Phosphate which is orthophosphate is the binder along with phosphorus, thatís phosphate and these are found in all living cells, while they are intact and alive that is and in some rocks-sand, etc.
So phos will come from-all facies, all calcium life support structures like bone and life less coral as they are broken down and all other dead life including algae as well and all fresh and dry foods, you see your aquarium pets do not eat any kind of non phos material.
In small amounts all life needs it to survive, but thatís in small amounts that should near not show in a test to be of an amount that would be harmful to corals!
Okay we now know it comes from everything that was alive and other factors!

Also they use inorganic orthophosphate in tap water to help protect pipes from rusting, so it will show in your aquarium waters if your tap water is not seriously filtered, like with the assistance of an RO bladder with in a 3 to 4 stage reverse osmosis filter system.
How can you get it out of your water.
Inorganic phos is there with no dead tissues connected with it in any way any more and organic is the opposite.
Skimmers can take it out while still organic and inorganic the skimmer is useless.
Algae can take it out while in both forms!

PH and phos
In salt water the PH we try to sustain actually keeps orthophosphate from leaving the water and precipitating out, you might say-sticking to something and becoming harmless, that happens with PH under 7.8, but then it may take out valuable PH conditioning calcium carbonate from your water.
Live rock or fresh base rock, which is dead coral with new life in and on it.
Once your system seems mature, as in no ammonia or nitrite and nitrate is hard to test being so low, the next phos issue becomes a problem.
The nitrobacteria with in the live rock makes its own low grade nitric acid, this helps separate the make up to be water soluble of what the coral is made up of, and some of that is phos, so a part from other reasons, phos will begin leaching out once sometime has passed.

A little water chemistry we all need to remember.
Positive ions like calcium-lime become more charged with more salt being present, this helps with in reason to control and raise PH and KH, but it also enables phosphates to be even more present in your aquarium water. Also always use calcium hydroxide instead of anything calcium based on chloride, chloride forms do not help much with PH.
From this, controlling salinity is a must at say Ė24 or Ė25 for sps. Higher salinity more phos! Also too low with salinity then bacteria onto protists attack your corals!

Sick corals
Turning brown is an indication you need to fix what is wrong ďnow!Ē You see the browning is a result of over fed symbiotic algae that is in the coral with nitrogen, this action smoothers the corals pigments that are for photosynthesis, then death may follow.
All that the actual coral polyp does more or less, is feeding by grabbing food from the water, everything else is carried out by the right algae with in and when phos or nitrate are present, the algae mutates and the coral polyp may kick that now useless algae out, which is called bleaching and the polyp will die quickly or slowly, if you do not control the water quality.
Thatís about it mate, hope it helps.

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Re: Hi Iím Tim at Beenleigh

Post  tim1972 on 28th November 2014, 11:07 am

Thank you liquid, that fills in all the spaces with my lack of understanding with what phosphates mean to reef keeping. cheers cheers
On with the cycling Cool Very Happy

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