My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

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My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 24th July 2011, 11:25 am

The one i use now.

The tank has no substrate as they encourage white spot outbreaks.

The system was matured with no live rock in the tank and all dead coral,rubble,rollers were boiled with bleach in the water to make it completely sterile ready for once the system had cycled,then placed in the tank to have it free of pests and all life is placed on the dread coral to make my own live rock!

Temps are kept between 23c to a max of 24c,the semi temperate life forms in the tank can exist at no greater then 24c and all algae do better at these temps as well.

Also tropical fish can exist down to 22c,no further for the long term, so thatís why those temps are in play, also the low temps slow the metabolism slowing the growth of fish enabling adult colours and shapes at very small sizes and many years of potentially large fish staying small.

Salinity is kept at 1.023,never lower then 1.022 as the bacteria becomes abundant and attacks the corals and no higher then 1.024 so the fishes organs for the removal of salt from the immense amount of water they drink to off set salt trying to enter them osmotically are not over worked to reduce that form of stress!

The foods I make are 98 percent from the sea blended to small sizes paricles,this food feeds all the life in these water and the mix incorporates a great deal of reef salt so that there will be no bacteria develop in these foods that will kill the fish from with in their gullet.

The salt also allows me to leave the food in a squeeze bottle out of the fridge for days near the tank so a squeeze from the bottle can be added whenever any one passes the tank.

I make up 15 ex bottles of sugarless bottles each time and freeze them ready to use when one empties.

The mix consists of low protein and high vitamin levels to hold back growth as well.

I do not use skimmers or any mech filtering for my system and if I were to do water changes it would lower the efficiency of this design!

The system that conditions my tanks water with no water changes at all, consists of a pre filter barrier wall, no sock, they do not pre filter properly!

Then a set of two pipes come out the pre filter box of glass to make a current in the algae area of the locally collected racemosa form and some other algae with some collected chaetomorpha algae.

These algae grows in 7 inches of water for the best photosynthetic potential and attachť to the top of 4 inches of dead coralline rollers,put in place to carry out some aerobic and even more anaerobic bio filtering beneath the algae forms that remove and convert all nutrients.

All trimmings via the use of scissors are thrown away each 6 to 8 days.

After the algae part of the NWMS, there are two reactor style pre settling pre filters to make sure nothing at all gets any further to potentially block the porus aspect of any bio filtering media.

They consist of one large cascaded water area from one chamber and from the other chamber there are multi levels of media beds of varied types.

After these the water enters the sump tub and returns to the tank completely free of nutrients and any part of the nitrite cycle.
The alga area provides CO2 in order to help break down the soft coralline rollers to provide all that they made of,the cascaded water zone defuses any left over CO2 rendering it harmless!

I use cree 3 watt diodes over the tank and one watt diodes in fluro replacement tubes over the algae area.
The algae lights are off for 4 hours and on for 20 hours.

The tanks lights are on for around 14 hours, especially when the algae areas lights are off!
The water parameters are consistently at-
Calcium 550 to 600
KH between 7
Nitrates 0
Phosphates 0

These parameters when tested are exactly the same at every test!

The tank life consists of a lot of corals and sponges etc.
There are two sea stars, many peppermint and boxer shrimp,one redline shrimp,one mimic tang,one clown wrasse,one chaoti wrasse,four latezonatus clowns,one pyjama wrasse,one bi colour blenny,five other algae eating blennies,one harp tail blenny,one red line anathias,one anemone crab,one rare cleaner shrimp,three clams,32 tube worms,three feather sea stars,two starki damsels,one lord how chromis,I forget the rest,lol.

My little tank June 2012.



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This was the last one i made and the system was confined under tank and the algae was grown in the high parts of the aquarium,to much trimming caulerpa that way.
I made this one in 1998 and matured it in the same ways as the one that follows, with this one the algae out side of tank though!

I got rid of it for when we moved in 2005 to make a different system I had worked some years before but did not have the space and build some different tanks.

This is it just after the filter matured.





This is it just over a month later.



Clam from that tank.




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The design from the 90s that I had only put on paper so far

This sytem will be able to sustain 3 to 5 aquariums, it is gravity fed using a one power head of 3000 litres per hour for the return.
The stand is desigend to take two aquariums to be veiwed in the holes in the wall,one will do for the next few months,once the system is matured i will build the next one,cut the hole for it and connect it.

Some nice picture frame timber will go around the tank soon,like a painting on the wall,with life in it.

I use external bio filtering,i never rely on the live rock for the bio media.
Tests carried out on live rock and under gravel filtration found near no bacteria running the aquariums biological filtration,it was found that the old termed creatures,protozoa now called if am told right,protists,these were present in abundance and they are known to graze on bacteria and hold bacteria with in,using these for nutriant oxidising the nitrite cycle,these run the nitrite to nitrate in a matured aquarium it was found!

Since the first time this was found out i have never based a marine aquarium filter on starting the bacteria and i have a matured filter ready for all tank life in most times ten days to maturity!

But that's just me


This is my latest build.

Auto gear box oil works best for in the glass cutters reserve for me.




Make one run with near no pressure on the cutter,that puts a fine line of oil,thats very important,than a scoring line on the glass and never go back over the line, it will make the wheel pitted in the cutter and never work right again.




This way of snapping the line along the glass leaves a smother line rather than taping to start the break line.
Once you finish each peice of glass cutting,use some smooth to medium sand paper to take off the glasses sharp edge all around it for safety.




Tank stand timber going together once cut and the shelves glued together,dip your screws in vas before screwing in to help prevent rusting,or use the treated timber screws,that's what i do.

Pine with out many knots is fine,thicker for heavier tanks,something like liquid nails has to be used as well to bond the timber.




Some of the conduit and piping used in the set up.




This form of scallop glass cutting is far simpler than you would think and can be very handy for tank over flows and vertical exits,my favourite way of cutting to suit.




I always put in a raised sloping floor to move the silt forward to the front for ease of removal or to be pushed out to the front and up through the first pre filter wool for twice a week cleaning.




This is onion bag netting used to stop life forms from getting to the pre filter that is glued with silicon over the scallop cuts.





Tank leak test.
This is done with freshwater and some detergent added to allow the water to make contact with the fresh glass and silicon or the potential leaks will show later once the surface attains the regular marine coating on the glass and silicon in the aquarium after a week or so.





Pipe bending with rope in pipe than use a flame, bend and put under tap water, pull out rope, its cheap but it works.
This is for cheap people like me to avoid purchasing many fittings.

I use an epoxy resin and fibre glass to attach fittings to glass for never any leaks, due to the strong acidic content of the epoxies to bond to glass sought of similar to acidic cure silicon, but far stronger!

When fittings are put on this way you have to break the glass to get them off.






Coraline rollers, for the bio system.

Excellent surface area for bio life forms and its soft structure more so then standard corals or shells,breaks down easier to release strontium, calcium,etc.





Spray bar, for good over all strong current projecting surface water to the over flow.

This should be made to clip in and take a part easily for cleaning and angle adjustments.








Pre filter.
These two are before the wet and dry sections, one leading to each, to prevent any rubbish from ruining their longevity.
Once the tubes are sloted and finished ready for use,i wrap filter wool,dacron around them and hold in place with rubber bands to stop any rubbish from getting past these sections.
They are designed for easy removal to clean them a few times a week or change the dacron,mine are made into socks via gluing the edge and bottom with silicon and slide the sock up the sloted tube and wrap a rubber band around the top for easy removal or cleaning.
Once i have cleaned any dacron around two times used for the two pre filters,i put them in the washing machine and re use them while a spare i have made keeps on doing the job as a rotational thing.
I use the thin one hundred micron dacron that remains intact for on going use,not standard filter wool!






After the pre filtering built on section of the tank there are two pipes to the main part of the Natural Waste Management System.





Attaching two totally different types of plastic to avoid using bulk heads.



The finished tub.





From rectangular down pipes I made my own LED light fittings for photosynthetic life forms.













Than onto,one pipe to--
Cascaded waters.
Internal rubbish bin converted with a drip tray over rollers.

Do not use anything with any form of uv protection built in, it will release toxins into the water over time.













The other pipe to the---
Nitrite and nitrate oxidising environment.







That was all of the remote Natural Waste Mangament System.

The actual aquarium now.

Glue coraline rollers to tanks floor with epoxy resins to allow life forms to inhabit the floor with no substrate.




Suspended marine meats and algaes to start ammonia for the nitrite cycle.




A hand full of matured media from old nitrte oxidising area to seed the new system.




14 year old nitrite oxidising unit that supplied the seeding.




First pre filter at rear of tank, no filter wool yet!
Pre filters, the Dacron (wadding) will become bio active if not cleaned in tap water,(not salt water),or replaced at least once a week, plus the detritis it is supposed to trap for removal is still in your water until it is cleaned or removed.

I clean it under the tap twice a week of the thinner and stronger type, I put it through the washing machine, residual soapsuds of tiny amounts, especialy if there is NWMS some where that will convert this, do not harm your system at all!

This is available from haberdasheries as wadding in varied types, make sure you rinse it in hot water before use, it comes with anti bacterial and anti fungal chemicals added from the factory.





Hole in wall of the store room i built for my tools,lots of junk,dive gear and aquarium hobby.



Tank in wall.



Close veiw of tank in wall.



Front view of finished,un matured tank with cree 3 watt high out put blue and white LEDs over it.

All corals,shell grit,rollers in tank and in the system are boiled and bleached to get rid of all forms of life in and on it to start fresh for a quicker and pest free bio start.

This is the tank just over half way through July as the nitrites,after peaking quite high as they should, have dropped back to zero.



This is the tank as of the 21st september.




The tank and system has been built over some months, the media seeding and ammonia producing meats were put in along with a half a can of dried food flakes.

The system is designed to achieve firstly, as the tank water exits out of the rear of the aquarium to a chamber and over flow, it has a barrier of Dacron.

The next area is the NWMS and does away with the need for a skimmmer and converts all watse!

The water as it leaves the NWMS has to pass through more fine Dacron before it enters into the nitriet and nitrate oxidising sections.

Than onto the cascaded waters area

From both lines the water is caught in the last tub,the sump where there is a 1,800 lire and hour power head where no detrites of any kind can get to it and prematurely wear out the impeller ,this is below every thing,from there the water is returned to the tank to a circulatory spray bar creating a rolling motion.


Last edited by liquidg on 19th February 2014, 10:08 am; edited 29 times in total

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This reply is the pics from after life went into the tank.

Post  liquidg on 16th August 2011, 2:16 pm



First life goes in to tank.

Thirty peppermint shrimp and ten boxer shrimp and a few other life forms went in on the 25th of July.




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These pics are taken on 16th of August,nearly one month from starting the tank.


The highest areas of the aquarium have algae there,I always have some thing like this in each tank I build for food and algae scrubbing of phosphates as such.





The tanks corals are divided into thirds sought of,each third is dedicated to a form of coral, the left is akans and alike, the middle is for stags,plates,small and lage polyp corals and the other end is leathers,xenias and other soft corals.

For corals to coexist well they can not be with in 20 mil of a completely different type or close down current as they can sense the others existence and will stress to death over time,thats why i create a rolling current to defuse this problem.

Coral agression is a common issue in reef tanks,if close enough they will sting each other and devour the polyps if you are not careful.
Some corals can exist agianst each other,just not the wrong ones.


This is the akan corner during a water change, this will have to be done until algaes have acheived 2 to 3 months of growth,once they need triming they are canceling out water changes.

Fifty percent of corals had been taken out over the first two months or so,as there are to many in the tank and they were given to other club members.





The front of the tank as of 16 of August.



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These pics are as of the 18th of August.


This is the algae on the higher areas of the tank, the pic is from out side the rear of the tank.



This is three eighth mono netting that is easily removable to stop the latz and wrasse from jumping out, plus to allow the light and gases to do their bit.



The is the floor of the tank, my preference is more so tube worms,coralines with other life forms and more to come, never would I have the curse of marine aquariums as they become over time, a substrate in the tank!



This is the tank finished more or less, just a few green zoas and one or two more small polyps including stags to add and thatís it.

There will be the need for trimming of algae as things go along,but thats the plan to help keep water quality at a high level and some small life forms I will added here and there if they fit.mostly some more varied tube worms,sponges along the bottom.

Feeding the tank

I use a mix of cunjivoe, marinara blend, sushi wrapp, frozen krill, frozen miscues shrimp, high quality wardleys freshwater flake food and some lobster tossed in.

These ingredients,I put through the blender and add a lot of good quality salt to the blended mess and than freeze into ice cube trays for on going use,a mix normally lasts me a year.

For actual feeding I mostly fill a small squeeze bottle with the tank water and crush up one cube of food, shake the bottle for each feed until all is mixed and than over a day or so I put in squirts here and there and this sustains everything, corals incuded.




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The tank finished and completely stable as of 29th August.

Corals feeding well.




The aquarium 99percent full.




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These pics are as of 21-September-2011

My new wrasse from one of our collecting trips, one to replace the banana wrasse that jumped out and when I put it back in it went into a bubble anemone,than I found it dead the next day and the other is just to finish the fish I was after for my tank.
Needless to say no anemones again for me,I should have remembered,poor wrasse i had it in the tube for months waiting for me to build the new tanks.

The new south seas (femininus) wrasse,getting fat and doing well.




A leopard wrasse,a little shy to begin with,that didn't last long,it eats well and gets on well with all in the tank.





The tank with all the life forms I want in it, some inverts have been changed and or added as i change my mind,most corals have attached now so i can't change my mind and move much any more, thatís pretty much it for them,though i am adding moave and bright green zoantids from a patch of lovely zoas we found on a trip a while back here and there.
There is no substrate so the likely hood of white spot is near to none,the fish are not stressed at all due to excelent water and 24 hour light some where in the tank.
The corals grow at roughly 3 mill per month,the xenia is spreading and onto the glass,the stoney corals,stags are all spreading out,algaes are growing fine,pretty much every thing is doing as good as it did,if not better than in the ocean.

I add iodide,and calcium and one will stop being added soon,as the iodide will not be needed after a couple algae trims.

From now on I collect coralines/algae and run hot water over them than cut them up into small peices and add them to the system to break down to realese their valuable trace elements!

I do not do water changes,except a half bucket of water once a fortnight,this needs to go back in as I syphon out the pre filter chambers for cleaning and put back any algae in the algae area,if found in them.

Any changes with in this type of aquarium is not an issue due to the system running it is external/remote,so any thing moved in the tank has nothing to do with the bio media so it is of no health concern to the tank at all!!

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Last edited by liquidg on 15th November 2012, 9:41 am; edited 21 times in total

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  fishnthings on 1st September 2011, 3:57 am

Tanks looking great! Very Happy you must be happy to have it up and running again .

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 1st September 2011, 6:20 am

Thanks for that, it's especially great to watch the coral polyps multiply this time, the T5s I had last time didnít do a lot and I gave up on metal haloid years ago with their cooking the tank and elec costs.

All the corals, mainly the stags and plate varieties have multiple new polyps now and the akans have some as well.

The lights are doing a ridiculously good job, the info on the net was completely accurate, not from forums;( two that I know of are just normally full of opinions), the actual info from the net after 40 plus hours of looking at what diodes are available, showed us the ones we got and they were the cheapest but still were rated to function at the highest levels on the market at that time.

Than the type of filtration that runs it will never allow stress via KH and the nitrite cycle fluctuations like most arenít aware are happening in theirs that bring on white spot and than the other forms of parasites.

There is room in the wall that I built for the next tank under this one and that will be fish sought of only tank.

I designed the filter running the top tank to be easy to move and change if wanted and it is able to run 4 tanks plumbed to it of a similar size so when I am ready to finish making the next tank, it will go under it and the poor fish stuck in my tubs can have an actual home.

cheers

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  finfan on 5th September 2011, 5:08 am

Your tank is amazing - what a great look.

It is clear you have done much research and have a lot of practicle experience to work from.

I enjoy learning from what you do - thanks.

Great stuff - RESPECT

Cool

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 5th September 2011, 8:16 am

Thanks for the kind words.

Hey don't forget over a lot of years of keeping marines and collecting them including constant experimentation as to what does what and why,i have made so many mistakes and suffered losers through that time,luckily they were my collected species or traded for over seas species while working comercialy back than!

But i learnt a great deal from them and though i lost some favourite fish and corals at times i cherish the gained knowledge when i look at the results from systems i have put together over recent years .

cheers

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  able2 on 5th September 2011, 3:02 pm

Shoot all that looks like a lot of work to get to where your aquarium is at,very nice result. Very Happy

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  trent@78 on 20th September 2011, 5:12 am

Hey Liquidg,I donít get all this, how does the set up you made achieve the biological filtering?
You said somewhere in the thread about a natural system, I thought all biological filtration was natural!
You say there is less chance of white spot or stress in yourís, how is that?
The end result looks awesome, thatís a given, I just donít understand it, you look around the forums and kitiaras aquarium looks like what every one recommends, why is there so much involved for yours?
Very Happy

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 21st September 2011, 10:49 am

I must admit what I do is far from what is currently used trent.

The natural side of this set up is different sought of in that it uses, as close as I can get to, the same methods that the ocean uses to remove waste, achieve gas exchange and inject trace elements back into the tanks eco system.

The ocean basis most every thing on algae for controlling its quality and production of trace elements, mainly via phytoplankton or similar, not so much on the reef structure, though it does a little, mainly the micro life forms suspended in the waters utilizing available sunlight converting our suburban/farming run off and all that excrete waste into the ocean that lives near or in the ocean.

Than the movements of the ocean distributes the gas exchanged and waste cleaned waters all over the place and to some degree, down to reasonable depths as well.

That is the oceans natural system of immensely varied life forms symbiotic or not, all contributing to the most beautiful and most important things on earth, the oceans!

To copy this the best I can with moneys and room that I have on hand, this is how I do it.
*.The live rock in the tank is removed of all life forms including mantis shrimps and crabs to avoid these problems some months down the track.

*.The tank is designed to get all rubbish to the front of the tank to be swept into the pre filter for removal.

*.There is no substrate because these holds rubbish and will contain silicon boring worms that make your tank leak later down the track, hold unwanted life forms including white spot and generally pollute the aquarium!


*.As the water leaves the tank, firstly and so importantly I use a 100 micron pre filter barrier as it leaves the tank and clean or change it regularly, this copies the oceans current that takes away non water soluble waste from reefs and reduces parts per million of waste at that spot.

The wastes are moved away from the reefs by currents and swells, normally near the surface, as waste tends to congregate.


*.The next stage in my system is a very robust algae area, this has to be shallow to allow intense photosynthesis to occur allowing the varied algaeís and sponges to use the light or just consume to convert everything-nutrients, phosphate, nitrate and so one.

From the dead coralline chunks,(rollers) for the roots to attachť it is 8 inches to the surface and the lights close to the water surface.

There are nine types of mainly caulerpa working in there, five types of sponges and lots of other life forms I find and add to it when I find things, with no standard substrate!!

Non pre filtered substrates pollute!!! Nothing more!!

The lighting on this and allowing photosynthesis for 18 an hour block in each 24 hours, coming on a few hours before the tanks lights go off and going off a few hours after the tank lights go on.

This means there is photosynthesis occurring at all times in the water to some degree no matter what!

This allows for the algae areas co2 production when its light is off to be converted by the tanks algae else where and visa versa, so no co2 softening of water causing PH varying issues because of this in the water and this also attains constant KH levels and valuable trace element production at all times.
Plus fish do not sleep thatís why I have the algae area at the back of the tank so they have some light twenty four hours a day to eliminate the stress that they endure while waiting for the lights to come on (sun to rise).
They can go to the back of the live rock for light while the tanks lights are off.

The wet sections that are full of calcium skeleton is to some degree broken down at miniscule amounts by the algae areas co2 production as the waters move through those chambers after leaving the algae area.

This high co2 water when the lights are out allows large denitratrification bacteria communities to exist a little better as well due to lower oxygen levels in there while lights are out, more so than the other times of high oxygen production from the algae when lights are on.

All this is to copy the oceans algaeís (phytoplankton) as these absorb the wastes, nutrients and chemicals, using the sun to convert these to glucose, amino acids, harmless carbons and other trace elements, to diverse to describe.

Than they excrete or die and there you have valuable trace elements, when algae dies it does not release the original substances, they have been converted to vital trace elements!!

Also when other forms of planktonic life consume these little hard workers than they have these valuable elements with them for their lifeís needs, than small fish and other life forms including corals, tube worms, whales,etc eat them and the original phytoplankton as well, larger fish eat the next sized fish, than bigger and bigger fish eat them and so on, thatís the ocean.

*.The next two sections of which there is one pipe to each going into two 100-micron pre filter containers, from the algae scrubber.

There is a three-tub section, one on top of the other, that is for some denitrifying bacteria, though mainly for the denitrating bacteria to exist easily and oxidise nitrates to nitrogen.
These consist of egg crate covered with mesh just off the bottom, than medium coral grit, than smaller, than fine shell grit towards the top, than the water passes over these.

If there is any rubbish able to get to these sections they will fail and produce sulphur gas and this is very disruptive if let happen.
Thatís in the first two, the last one has just rollers in it.

*.The other pipe from the scrubber once it is run through itís own pre filter puts the water onto the drip tray over rollers again in the dry section for all gas exchanges.

*. Under the frame that supports all this is a tub that has a good quality 1800 litre an hour power head.
I always have a spare on hand just in case, this has perfectly clean water by the time it gets to it so the impellor area should last a very long time as the old aqua clears I had that lasted just under 20 years.
As the water runs into this tub it is defused of bubbles as well.

*.The last step is the water is pumped up to the spray bar that is designed to be removed and cleaned easily and to roll the water as it enters the tank giving very good tubulation towards the exit to exit the tank once again.

He direction of the current is important to allow the corals to not stress to much sensing the chemicals of other more powerful stinging varieties.

I could have made this as an under tank system, but I wanted it to remove the need again for water changes for up to a 6 foot tank or 5 small tanks, just in case.

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  trent@78 on 26th September 2011, 3:52 pm

I didn't understand much of that at all, you seem to and I suppose thatís all that matters.
I look forward to looking in on updates to see how this confusing arrangement pans out over time.
It's very nice what you have done in the aquarium.
cheers

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tank

Post  atdm on 28th September 2011, 2:35 pm

mate sounds complicated but is looking good.

Need more updates

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 28th September 2011, 2:57 pm

Hey atdm,mate i don't put any updates as replies,i put them in the original thread reply.

The thread at the start is the build the reply i put in straight after that is one continual update, it is the on going tank,i put the dates in for the updates for the tank in each update.

I don't want to put in heaps of replies,i just update my original reply to the thread start with an up date each month with a dotted line to seperate each months up date.

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  Dazza on 30th September 2011, 5:29 am

Hey liquidg,this algae thing at the back of the tank you have,i am thinking of setting up a refugium and was interested in what you have done for this.
How does yours work?
cheers

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 30th September 2011, 2:27 pm

Natrural waste managment system life forms powering now.


One of the new zoas we found on the trip up the coast.





Stoney coral was smooth,lots of new growth.





Stag acroporas are doing very well with lots of new growth.

The brown/red colour ting is the polyps feeding, these lights and filter combined are bringing out some wonderful colour contrasts in the polyops to the actual coral.

They are becoming far prettier than upon collection from the ocean!






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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 15th October 2011, 1:19 pm

Things are really heating up in the tank with the colours of the acros and zoas.

My little favourite stag at the top of the hard coral area is rediculas,purple,blue and green on one coral,i love it!

This one is my favourite.



This is stag central.



It was funny,the way i make my filters based on the oceans natural processes was condemed on another forum and the guy reckons i just change the corals regularly,becuase i collect,what a wanker,he works at a shop so he has to say that,i suppose to justify shop bought only gear to keep corals.


These are the zoas,the pruple and pink colours are taking over a bit with in the flesh of them.

Zoa up close



zoa and corals







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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  finfan on 17th October 2011, 1:33 am

Now THAT is colour Shocked

Very Nice.....

Cool

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 17th October 2011, 2:19 am

Thanks mate,it's looking nice in there,just laying on the lounge near it with a cuppa watching the tank sometimes is so relaxing.

I don't know whether it is mainly the affects of nutrient control by the aggressive form of caulerpa or the combo of the lights, or just over all.

I expected good results over all as you get with heavy-duty algae scrubbing as a major part of this type of filtration, as usual, but these colours are far beyond what they were in the ocean at collection.

There are more experiments about to happen in Dannyís new tank and system as well, once the new( better than mine) filter system is up and running I will see what happens there to compare.

Finaly we can reduce the amount that we collect,they will stay alive in his as good soon,lol.

Heís scrubber is a bit bigger and a better design!

This form of caulerpa taking over my scrubber, I havenít used until now and of course the lighting thrown into the equation, who knows, time for more experimentation to see exactly what is doing it.

Personally it is some from the lighting and appears that as this algae has got going beyond the others, so did the nutrient removal and useful trace element production as well from this algae, thatís what I think is happening!

Everything in the tank is changing so fast,so we will see.

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  finfan on 17th October 2011, 2:53 am

Yes- its very enjoyable insnt it...

You mention a "better" scrubber - do you have any pic or diagrams to follow. I am keen to add soemthing like this to my existing 4ft set up, your results speak for themselves and a smaller scale version was what I was going to duplicate, but we all learn new stuff every day and if you think there is a better option I would love to hear about it. The current Marisys 2 and Nitrate reactor are keeping everything in good order to date (early days still) but I believe it can be improved on with a scrubber or the like ? and I am keen to build something. I have Acros and Goniopora now and really want to do the best by them..... any ideas or advise is more then welcome Very Happy

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 17th October 2011, 4:35 am

Yeh no worries mate,i will do up something on it as i was going to but thought i wouldn't bother for another asking about refugiums/scrubber/algae area on here.

You see if it is not on the net and refered to with some large words and scientific terms and direct you to buy it,than it can't work!!

Thats what reactions to shop sponsorship and egos has made of the net to a great degree!

I will get something done soon and put it up on that thread,its just i havent seen much from the forum user that origianly asked so i wasn't goinng to bother.

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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 17th October 2011, 2:18 pm

Its done,here at this link.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I can only say that the results of my natural waste managment system used in this way are the results in my tank,in there is the proof of how this designe is working!!


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Tubastrea coral, doing it tough!

Post  liquidg on 19th October 2011, 1:26 pm

My poor little tubastrea has a hard life, it gets fish lay on it, rubbish gets dropped on it, the current takes rubbish algae bits onto it,the poor thing.

Yet it has multiple new polyps, four that I can see and has taken on feeding in full light now, which they do not like to do!

It went in while the bleach I used for the corals had not fully been removed, so it had it tough, but as you can see, just like all the other corals that should not exist this good in these conditions from advice from a renowned site, are powering, what a surprise!

I feel for the ones that follow their advice fully, that canít really afford the propping up that live rock bio filtering requires.

The tech that is being pushed on to lots of net users, if you can afford it easily is great, but what about those that do not have the money to keep going and fail or do not get the results they hoped for, it is so easy to do it cheap and far better than most are advised of.

The entire filtration, every bit of it that runs my tank cost not much under $300,including the power head and heater.

The ones that use tricle/natural means to control their tank water, do not go on the net and talk of this, it inspires arguments in defence of egos,money and who knows what else.

The ones out there that are quietly laughing in the faces of those that will lead many astray, as they do, good on you!!


This is my little coral,getting bigger.


Algae bits and fish sitting on it and swim close to it,plus its nearly always covered in crap.



The tang regularly,virtually lays on it.




This is my little sunburst coral I got while chasing crays up the coast months back, now feeding on the mix they all love.

You would be amazed where we find this coral variety at times!!

So shallow and so discusting places at times.




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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 23rd October 2011, 11:44 am

A milestone has been reached, the first coralline out break,lol.
Shame it was in the original algae area, I put on a new one I made and found this coralline on the old one.





The new chromis from the 22-10-2011 trip settling in nicely.





One of the peppermint shrimps shed shell on my favourite coral and one in the back ground.




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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 1st November 2011, 3:45 pm

Final pre filter,how dirty it gets each day.



I leave it for days like this and it is fine.


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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 1st November 2011, 3:49 pm

One of three-feather starfish I put in the tank just days after the nitrites hit 0.

They are powering, these went in at around 25 mil across,now they are around 60 mil across and the feather tip parts show the growth rate and over all health.

The less angled parts to the end of each feather,the stronger their health is,in the ocean they average 2 to 4,when sick but still growing they have 4 to 5,mine have 2.

A part from my second favourite sea creature,I use them for their nitrate sensitivity, if there are nitrates, they fall a part!

This is my nitrate test kit.




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Re: My first glass aquarium in two years,a moderately eutrophic system.

Post  liquidg on 3rd November 2011, 1:26 pm

Two wrasse that the clown killed ,now that the clown is gone are replaced with new collected ones.




The collected fish in tank, the starkiis are still hiding, I put two in out of the ones I collected.




Collected starkii,my favourite damsel, very pretty and gets on with everything!




Another collected lysmata shrimp to replace the one the clown killed.




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